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Denali Sound Bomb Compact Dual-Tone Air Horn
The Denali Sound Bomb is eight times louder than a standard motorcycle horn! At 120 decibels, cagers of all shapes and sizes will jump out of your way!
The unique design of the Denali compact horn features a rugged molded clamp that mechanically mates the compressor to the acoustic unit. This makes the SoundBomb virtually indestructible even in high vibration applications.
- Current Draw: 20 Amp
- Dimensions: 5.4” (137mm) wide x 4.5” (116mm) high x 3.6” (86 mm) deep
- Includes 12 volt (30 amp) relay
- Optional Plug-N-Play Wiring Harness available (sold separately)
Note: Mounting bracket sold separately. The Installation (pdf) calls for a 30 Amp fuse, however only a 20 Amp fuse is required.
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Reviews & Questions
Seriously though, buy this thing! But find a way to install it outside of the fairing, aimed away from yourself. The install kit gets the job done but it is actually louder to the rider than it is out the front, when mounted where the kit says to install it. That being said, it is still WAAAY louder than the stock Vstrom beeper. It is well worth the time, effort and money. I hope this helps. Stay safe!
1 year ago
Then I found something better. PIAA slim line twin horns (400hz and 500hz) sourced from Amazon (Sorry, wish Revzilla carried them!) hooked up to a relay are louder than this air horn. Yes, louder. What's more? The response time when pressing the button is noticeably faster vs. air horns too. Lastly, the air horn is big. The slim lines are 2 horns that together fit tighter spaces.
When the air horn I had on my Multi started losing its muster after about 5 years of use, maybe from inevitable exposure to the elements, I replaced it recently with the slim lines and couldn't be happier. I now happily have slim lines on both my FJR and Multistrada and will probably never buy an air horn again.
over 3 years ago
* In December 2015, I purchased the Denali from Revzilla and ordered the other components available: Wiring Harness and Mounting Bracket to mount on my Suzuki V-Strom 650 Adventure.
* First I disconnected the battery, then removed the gas tank for more access to the R/H side instead of removing the R/H side faring which would have been more complicated.
* NOTE: I'm a skinny guy with long fingers so you wider guys might need to remove more plastic than I did for easier access!
* It's a tight squeeze, but the bracket and the horn fits snugly in place, see photos as proof.
* It took me several tries, adjusting the mounting bracket and horn, so everything will comfortably miss the fork leg and barely miss the faring.
* Better safe than sorry while digging around: I used some closed cell 1" wide weather stripping to help cushion the horn from the faring: don't need plastics chaffing each other.
* The wiring harness has minimal instructions that are spelled out in a diagram. No problem at all with the wiring install, and you'll need more zip ties, as usual, than supplied. I like to put a spot of dielectric grease on connections to help prevent corrosion.
* Buttoned everything back together, hooked the battery back up, turned the key and blipped the horn button. Now there's REAL AUTHORITY! RREEAALL AAUUTTHHOORRIITTYY!!
* I can't speak of longevity, since it's January here in NW Minnesota and have a few months before riding weather returns. Since I use a horn sparingly it should last for years.
* I hope this review helps someone.
I disassembled the motor housing and inspected the internals. It looks really good and should last a heck of a long time. The unit is easily disassembled in the event you want to mount the motor/compressor (one unit) separate from the horn cones.
All these air horns of this design sound about the same. Good and loud but a distinctive, high-pitched sound for sure.
Be sure and feed this horn through the supplied relay. It will pull upwards to 18-20 amps, depending upon the voltage source and it's regulation. If you try to wire it direct (with no relay to handle the current load) you will likely damage the contacts for your horn button! Use appropriately sized wire designed to handle 20 amps.
Everything works great, especially with the wiring harness.
If you have a first gen KLR 650, the best place to mount it is on the right side of the frame above the engine. The bolt that stabilizes the exhaust with the frame works great. After wiring, get a 2 inch long, 1 inch wide piece of flat steel and drill holes in it. One end attaches to the frame and the other to the horn. If you don't want someone to merge into you on the freeway, you need this thing.
The horn itself is good and loud. I've only used it a few times and got the persons attention :)
Depending on your skills and obsession with clean installations, this is a 2- or 3-beer project.
The only other thing I can think of is that the system is being overwhelmed with too much power draw. If that is the case, it should only happen when activating the horn.
Will there be any electrical issues installing on a Honda VTR100F (superhawk)?
Sorry I can't speak more specifically to the electronic questions.
FYI: Denali now makes a horn which is made in 2 parts separated by wiring to make it easier to mount on smaller bikes. Maybe you should look into that.