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Spring-loaded hinged lid. White-T connector uses 1/4" spade connectors on 9.00" leads. 18mm brass jam nut mounting. Rated at 15 amps, snap-fit and vibration proof. Requires .6875" (11/16") hole and 1.00" behind the panel. Lid measures 1.075" in diam.
power at your fingertips
The installation of this product could have not been easier. I installed two of these power outlets with stitches in three of my fingers and a splint on the other hand. So yes it was easy and I could put them where I needed them.
October 18, 2013
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John S:Hi, I do not use their jacket or gloves, but based on their web site it says the jacket plugs right into their jacks. I have an old "warming belt" from another company, and I share the advice given at the link I mentioned above, that it's very important to use a temperature controller. If no controller, you'll be going from too cold to too hot and back, constantly turning the switch on and off. Controllers work wonderfully to set anywhere in between. Once you get hot, you sweat, then it's so much easier to become cold. I prefer to just have a little heat, but constant, just to keep the chill off. With that said, electronic controllers shut off if power is removed, so make sure your jack is wired to the battery using the included fused harness, NOT switched by the ignition key. This is my preference, yours may vary. So if I stop for a minute, heat does not shut off, I.e. You won't have to rest the controller each time you start your bike, unless you get off and unplug of course. And you don't have to run the machine to have heat. At only 60 or less watts (it's much less when you run on lower settings, more like 12-15 watts) you will not drain your battery significantly over a many minutes of time. But don't forget your jack is live and leave things plugged in for a long time ;<) I figure 10-15 watts continuous is where I run, that's only 1 amp drawn from a 6 amp-hour battery, so I can run an hour or two if needed with the engine off and still start the bike/snowmobile.
My use is snowmobiling, and it's wonderful to have when it's 30 below zero.
James Z:Yes, this will work., but you will need an adapter to connect the jacket to the power receptacle. Use either the Powerlet Low Profile To Coax Female or the Powerlet To Coax Female 10" Length - either will work and both are available from RevZilla. The low profile makes for a neater install if the receptacle is mounted forward on a fairing in my opinion.
As heated jacket liners pull a pretty good number of amps I recommend that when you run the power wires to the receptacle you don't skimp on the wire gauge - run the largest recommended gauge. Tapping off a switched source for the power prevents battery drain if you leave something plugged into the receptacle. Route the wires carefully so aren't pinched anywhere as they can wear through and short everything out.Feb 26, 2014
Matthew W:While I don't own this particular jacket, I look at the picture and see what looks like a male coaxial connector on the end. I believe to use this socket with that coax connector --you'd need to convert the ends with something like the Powerlet Low Profile to Coax Female for $19.95 on this site.
Copperstate:This is a BMW type socket, I used it on my K1200LT, however with the boot installed it will be deeper than the BMW OEM configuration. The connector for this brings the wires straight in to the connector, on the OEM connection it is a 90 degree angle. The connector is also larger than the BMW OEM connector.
On my LT this was not a problem since there was enough room for all this behind the fairing, however on my R1200C where more of the bike is exposed I am not sure that the connector would work. I would probably opt to solder the wires directly to the leads on the socket and then put a radio shack connecter upstream or something like that.May 20, 2012